Green up your interior space with a quick and easy herb garden that won’t break the bank

Sundays are for sleeping in, binging on netflix, and if you’re like me–cooking.

You can keep fresh herbs available within arm’s reach if you have a few bucks and a sunny window.

For the pictured herb garden above, we used a set of six square, distressed wooden vases.  Each box is lined with plastic to prevent water seepage.

–> You can find the exact wooden vases here at this link <—

Place a small layer of gravel at the base of each box to catch excess water and prevent rot, then simply insert the potted herb into the vase.  A top layer of spanish moss conceals the structure and helps retain moisture.

To maintain, water a little at a time, and often.  You may have to occasionally service the vase by emptying any excess water out.  For 4-inch pots, I found that about an ounce of water every other day was sufficient.  Some plants will require more, some less.  You will absolutely not have any issues growing mint indoors–it is a weed, basically.  Other plants can be more fickle.  Experiment as you like.

The indoors isn’t ideal for certain varieties–these will not have an extremely long lifespan in your kitchen unless they are maintained perfectly.  No matter–herbs are cheap ($3-$5 per pot), so any mistakes you make won’t be too expensive.

For better drainage, use traditional pots and saucers.  I opted for the wooden vases for aesthetic reasons, understanding their limitations.

As always, reach out with any questions.

Enjoy!

Coreopsis “Zagreb” is a cheery perennial that blooms throughout the summer.  Here with tangy “Fire” Profusion Zinnia and a bit of Angelonia.  Pale colors can wash out in the late summer light. For that reason, aside from white which always pops (especially at night) we prefer to use bolder colors in our borders.

Annuals come into their own, especially when provided with fertilizer through the season.  They can smother the most insistent weed.  Above, Angelonia in two colors, “Punch” Vinca, Salvia “Victoria Blue” and Coleus.  None of these varieties require deadheading beyond a rare snip.

Salvia “Mystic Spires” (this relatively recent introduction deserves to be more available), Melampodium, Magenta Sunpatiens, Dreamland mixed Zinnias, a lime Echinacea, “Fire” Profusion Zinnias, Rudbeckia “Indian Summer”.  There are a host of incredibly showy Salvias more widely grown in recent years. Beloved by hummingbirds and butterflies due to vivid colors and tubular flowers, they come into their own in late summer and fall.  We were awed that the Salvia “Mystic Spires” we planted in 2013 bloomed through the first few fairly hard frosts that did in everything else.

A perky lime-colored Echinacea (Coneflower).  Wish I’d kept the tag for identification!  Stems are short and sturdy.  The Sunpatiens in the background  have become a staple for us in both sun and part shade.  Here, Magenta.  We love the Bright Orange, Dark Rose, White and Hot Coral varieties as well.

Eye-popping Hardy Hibiscus.

Angelonia, Magenta Sunpatiens, Rudbeckia Indian Summer, Salvia “Mystic Spires”, Phlox “David”, “Fire” Profusion Zinnia.  Unlike the commonly planted Rudbeckia “Goldsturm”, which sports golden flowers that can be coarse in a field of pinks and blues, “Indian Summer” blooms are overblown and a bright, sunny yellow – a hue that plays more effectively with most other colors in the garden.

So find a comfy chaise, put your feet up and enjoy the show.  You’ve earned it.

“More than anything, I must have flowers, always, always.”   Claude Monet

“And above all, watch with glittery eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places.  Those who don’t believe in the magic will never find it.”   Roald Dahl

Summer was cruel to our well-intended lawns. Even with regular and responsible irrigation, the combination of record-breaking heat and few real rains wreaked havoc and provided weeds and critters with optimal conditions. So…now’s the time to regain our emerald glory before the temps drop.

To begin…mow the lawn, short (1 to 1.5 inches). This will make the tasks to follow easier and more successful.

De-thatch. Take a hard rake to the lawn, remove the build-up of thatch, exposing soil between areas of healthy lawn. You might as well remove large weed colonies as you see them and rake those areas, too.

De-bump. While you’re de-thatching, check for bumps, depressions, unevenness in the soil and correct with good topsoil. if those imperfections reside underneath good sod, lift it and correct, then reposition the sod.

Test. Now is a very good time to check your soil’s ph which will likely be low if you haven’t checked it in a while. We live in an area of primarily acidic soil which is why we can grow so many wonderful broad-leafed evergreens. But that condition is not optimal for grass. Take a soil sample, in baggie, to your local garden center for a quickph test and adjust as recommended with a simple application of lime (too much can be too much, so make sure to adjust according to their recommendation based on the test result). You can use a spreader but do not mix the lime with fertilizer in the spreader! Water well after it’s applied. it’s unlikely that a soil test will indicate a too-high ph reading. If so, your garden center will recommend asulphur product (be careful not to use too much…you might burn the turf) to lower the ph.

De-weed. Walk the lawn and stop to remove, by root, the weeds. On our properties, we remove large areas of weeds and apply sod. On smaller areas we seed. This is the ultimate organic weed removal!

Compost. On all cleared areas, apply a layer of mushroom compost or composted leaves that you might have stored on your property. Rake into the existing soil, smooth (mix well…you may want to apply a mix of topsoil and compost). Not only will the compost fertilize the lawn but it will help to break down clay and add beneficial microbes to the soil structure which will digest grass clippings, dead roots, other green waste over time

Aerate. Every few years, consider renting a core aeration machine or hire a service. Or strap on a pair of aeration sandals and get some exercise. Aeration allows roots to penetrate deeper, and fertilizer/compost and moisture to work further into the soil. The effect for just the first few days is like having a team of dogs doing their business everywhere.

Seed. Use a premium mix for shade and sun, available from a number of seed companies…choose a mix that is not too heavy on perennial rye. Primex carries some top quality seeds. Apply according to directions. Be sure you’ve loosened and composted your soil first, and added lime if needed.

We apply seed first to those areas we’ve prepared, and then to the rest of the lawn right over the existing turf. A walking seed spreader is the easiest way to apply the seed, but be sure you’ve gotten enough of it to the spots in need.

Water!!!!! And a few more exclamation points as well. Immediately after applying the seed, soak the areas well. Twice a day thereafter, a light watering so that the seeds don’t move into clumps. Morning and late afternoon, unless of course it’s raining. If the soil dries out, the seeds won’t germinate or will die once they have. When the new grass is at least 2 inches tall, resume your normal watering schedule and mow with a sharp blade at any time thereafter

Fertilize. Create a schedule for regular ongoing fertilization of your lawn. A number of excellent organic products are available.

Many folks remark that a lawn is impractical and unnecessary. Though it’s true, a lawn also provides cool green on a hot summer’s day. A soft carpet for walking barefoot. And it affords a house and property the look of being well-loved and cared for. Enjoy yours!

And please fill out the contact form if you can use our help.

Prepping the Garden for the Winter Season

• If you happen to have a mulching leaf vacuum and you have oak trees…be sure to use that wonderful stuff as mulch for your Rhododendrons, Azaleas, blue Hydrangeas and other acid-loving plants. There’s nothing better! Even if you don’t have one of those machines (they ARE noisy and gas-guzzling), your oak leaves, whole, will provide a nourishing mulch and break down faster than other leaves do. Virginia Umberger, who taught me everything about the significance of each individual plant, would keep a ready supply of oak leaves through all four seasons to use as mulch. She is in her late nineties and still carrying water from her rain barrel to the sun garden across the street.

• My mom, who taught me everything about the universe of fine gardening from the start, and who still tends to her beautiful gardens with an eye to the immaculate, doesn’t have oak leaves on her property. She knows the value of pine needles which are in ample supply, and uses them to advantage in her Rhododendron and Hydrangea beds. I must post some photos of her gardens.

• Cut back to an inch above ground all of your perennial plants. if you’re enjoying the seedheads or post-frost foliage then by all means don’t cut back!

• This is an optimal time to divide, transplant perennials if they’ve outgrown their spots.

• Bring Hydrangea heads into the house…just place into containers (leaves removed) for all-winter enjoyment.

• No pruning of Roses, Butterfly Bushes, Caryopteris til early spring! If in doubt about anything, don’t prune. Doing so now encourages new growth which will be vulnerable to the cold, and may well kill the plant.

• When there’s time, I like to edge all beds for a neat appearance through winter.
  Containers….remove plants, soil, and turn upside-down. Concrete containers will be ok with soil. A planter you really care about that may be too heavy to store or turn over can be safe-guarded by covering the opening with a piece of plywood, then wrapping the entirety with bubble wrap (you may want to then cover with burlap and raffia which looks a whole lot nicer).

• We plant bulbs through mid-January. Don’t stress if you haven’t the time right now. A word of caution…bulbs can easily become moldy and useless…so be sure yours are stored where there is good air circulation and little moisture if you’re not going to be planting for a while.

• Dahlias…if you have a dry spot indoors for storing them, lift from the ground with an inch or two of the stalk remaining, and wash the dirt off. Check every so often during the next few months, with a water sprtizer in hand, if they are too dry. They can be divided now (check for new growth nodules to determine which will be viable next year) w/ a sharp knife or in early spring.
• You’ll be replanting them in April. Or…if the following months are not terribly wet, your tubers will be safe in the ground with a 12 inch layer of leaves and landscape cloth, attached to the ground with sod staples (available at most garden centers) to cover.

• Cannas are somewhat more forgiving than Dahlias of how they’re stored. Wash them and place them in your garage or basement, plant in late April/early May.
  It’s not too late to repair your lawn with sod…in fact, it’s the easiest time of year for establishing. Call or email if you want a top-quality resource.
• The winter garden has its own charms. Be thoughtful of that as you prepare.

from the archives: galkaoutdoor.blogspot.com

Summer flew by in record time. Yesterday we were planning and prepping our beds for summer gardening. Today we’re bemoaning the very first frost-blackened tips and thinking…ok, time to put energy to clean-up!

An article, with recipe, for creating moss patterns where you have moist shade. An old wall, a low-lying spot, anywhere near a drain will work well.

Here’s another recipe…

Several clumps of moss

1 container yoghurt or 12 oz buttermilk

1/2 tsp sugar

 

Put all in a blender, blend. Transfer to a jar and paint onto your surface with a brush. Make sure to mist the area frequently after applying the mixture until it’s established. You can also create your pattern indoors on a seed tray containing compost or on the form you’ll be using outdoors. Transfer to the outdoors when the moss has established, and continue to mist until it’s well-situated.

 

 

“Look at the bark of a redwood, and you see moss.  If you peer beneath the bits and pieces of the moss you’ll see toads, small insects, a whole host of life that prospers in that miniature environment.  A lumberman will look at a forest and see so many board feet of lumber.  I see a living city.”    Sylvia Earle

from the archives: galkaoutdoor.blogspot.com

It’s time to prune your roses! The following is by no means an exhaustive how-to. But ample for ensuring a healthy start to the rose season. Refer to this article throughout the summer when maintenance pruning will encourage new growth and bloom, remove dead wood, improve air circulation and provide a pleasing plant shape. Maintenance pruning should not be tackled past August.

from the archives: galkaoutdoor.blogspot.com

>>Blog<< from our friends @ ecogeek.com with an intro to green roofs and some inspiring photos.

Enjoy!